Pic

Pic Review

For decades celebrated as a culinary landmark, the Maison Pic is now also a feast for the eyes—when it became a member of the glossy Relais & Châteaux group a decade ago it received a major design makeover and now visually ravishes all with its symphony of vaulted white salons, deep maroon-velvet sofas, eighth-century billiard tables, gigantic Provençal armoires, lovely gardens, and an inviting swimming pool. Some may say the new decor has obliterated all traces of its time-stained past but few will complain once they see how splendid the contemporary look is. The main raison d'étre, however, remains the famed restaurant (closed Monday; no dinner Sunday; reservations required; main courses range from €42 to €85), which is going stronger than ever. Try the truffle-flavor galettes with asparagus or the loup de mer (sea bass) with caviar (served either "avec modération" or "passionnément") to see how award-winning Anne-Sophie Pic, great-granddaughter of the founding matriarch, is continuing the family legacy. Dine in the cardinal-red dining room seated on Louis Seize-style bergères or, in summer, on the shaded terrace, then retire upstairs to the guest rooms, done in a mix of rustic antiques and high-style fabrics. A café, the Auberge du Pin, also entices (with much lower prices). Sadly, breakfast is not only extra but mediocre.