Kubla Khan would have decamped from Xanadu in a minute for this Drôme pleasure palace. The Maison Pic has been a culinary landmark for decades, although its (too?) glossy Relais & Château make-over into a full-scale hotel has nearly obliterated any traces of its time-stained past. Not that you will complain -- much of the decor is to die for: vaulted white salons, red-velvet sofas, 18th-century billiard tables, gigantic Provençal (that's where the Pic family came from) armoires, lovely gardens, and an eye-popping pool make this a destination in itself. The famous restaurant (closed Monday; no dinner Sunday) is going stronger than ever -- try the truffle-flavored galettes (pancakes) with asparagus or bass with caviar (served either "avec modération" or "passionnément") to see how Anne-Sophie, great-granddaughter of the founding matriarch, is continuing the family legacy. Dine in the cardinal-red dining room seated on Louis Seize-style bergères or, in summer, on the shaded terrace, then retire upstairs to the guest rooms, done in a mix of rustic antiques and high-style fabrics. A café, the Auberge du Pin, also entices (with much lower prices).

Member Reviews & Ratings: