If you wish to experience "la vie Savoyarde" in all its pastel-hue, François Boucher-charm, head to this towering 14th-century manor on a hill east of Chambéry. Its large restaurant is famous for its wedding feasts, but anyone can delight in its special treats, such as the rabbit terrine with shallot compote and an escalope de fruits de mer, where the copious seafood is arranged in the shape of a lobster. Even more delicious are the guest rooms, which range from blowout magnificent—the chandeliered nuptial chamber has a canopied red-velvet bed—to rooms done up in sweet peasant-luxe furnishings. Owner Didier Lhostis, an avid antiques collector, spent four years renovating, so rooms feature an array of delights—antique panels of boiserie, honey-gold beams, a grandfather clock, carved armoires, a 19th-century "psyché" mirror, and glorious regional fabrics. Better yet are views ranging over the neighboring Chartreuse monastery and villages. So who can blame you for lingering over the lavish breakfast? Pros: perfectly intimate but not stifling size; mouthwatering antiques; warm and personal host. Cons: upkeep and accessories neglected; erratic service.
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