Back when your grandmother's grandmother was making the grand tour, La Pyramide was le must—Fernand Point had perfected haute cuisine for a generation and became the first superstar chef, teaching a regiment of students—Bocuse, Chapel, and the brothers Troisgros among them—who went on to streamline and glamorize French dining the world over. Many decades later, La Pyramide has dropped its museum status and now offers contemporary classics by acclaimed chef Patrick Henriroux, accompanied by a peerless selection of wines featuring local stars from the nearby Côte Rôtie and Condrieu vineyards. Both classical and avant-garde dishes triumph here, from crème soufflée de crabe au croquant d'artichaut (cream crab soufflé with crunchy artichoke) to the veau de lait aux légumes de la vallée (suckling veal with vegetables from the Drôme Valley). Guest rooms are graceful and comfortable in this relaxed setting, but the mysterious Relais & Chateaux fatigue syndrome may have had a cooling effect on this previously exciting establishment.
Visit the Travel Talk forums for help on planning your trip