Lyon and the Alps Restaurants
We’ve compiled the best of the best in Lyon and the Alps - browse our top choices for Restaurants during your stay.
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We’ve compiled the best of the best in Lyon and the Alps - browse our top choices for Restaurants during your stay.
One of the city's best-known insider spots, this typical bouchon with the de rigueur red-check tablecloths sits behind the Musée des Beaux-Arts. Practically a club, it's crowded with regulars who trade quips with the owner while the kitchen prepares the best tablier de sapeur (tripe marinated in wine and fried in bread crumbs) in town. Whether you order the hunks of homemade pâté, the stewed chicken in wine vinegar sauce, or the plate of ris de veau (sweetbreads), your dinner will add up to good, inexpensive food and plenty of it.
Star chef Christian Têtedoie's rocked the culinary world when, after 20 years, he shuttered his Michelin-starred gastronomic temple to open this soaring art-filled aerie perched atop Lyon's Fourvière hill. The minimalist design and immense bay windows offering staggering views of the city signaled a new direction in the great chef's approach, breaking free of classicism in favor of a more audacious menu: roasted foie gras with bitter orange, pineapple, and onion in a duck reduction; roast pigeon stuffed with garlic, cabbage, and chestnuts; or the chef's signature pressed tête de veau (calf's head) served with a half lobster en cocotte (casserole). Le Phosphore wine bar downstairs offers lighter wine-focused "degustation" menus orchestrated by Têtedoie and a guest winemaker with a quality-price ratio that's hard to beat anywhere in town.
Among other honors, chef Joseph Viola has distinguished himself by creating a world-champion pâté en croûte (foie gras in a pastry crust)—nothing to sneeze at, especially if you're at the helm of one of Lyon's better bouchons. Here you'll find a charming atmosphere, complete with checked tablecloths, lace curtains, and some of the city's most satisfying local specialties, including the quenelles de brochet (a tender, sausage-shape dumpling made from river pike). Cervelle de veau (calf brains) is another standout, and the faint of heart can't go wrong with the excellent boudin noir. Note: there are three Daniel & Denise outposts, but this one, in the Vieille Ville, is slightly more upscale.
As the name would suggest, family photographs adorn the walls of this low-key bistro high on the Croix Rousse hillside. The simple cuisine tends toward traditional recipes and authentic Lyon fare made with organic and local ingredients. From the poulet fermier (free-range chicken) to the grilled trout, the daily chalkboard announces the market specialties that chef Gilles Mozziconacci has managed to cobble together on his early-morning market tour through Les Halles de Lyon. In summer, opt for a table on the terrace.
Decorated with photographs of local celebrities, this popular bistro is particularly animated. Simple food—chicken simmered for hours in wine, meaty stews, and grilled fish—is served on bare wood tables. A blackboard announces plats du jour, which are usually less expensive than items on the printed menu. Try the caille aux petits legumes (quail with baby vegetables) for a change from heavier bouchon fare like the bugnes (beignets of fried pork fat).
Accomplished chef Julien Gautier struts his considerable stuff at this stylish upper-Brotteaux-district bistro east of the Rhône. Expect an inventive, market-driven cuisine, characterized by dishes like slow-cooked lamb with grilled eggplant, buffalo mozzarella, and pine nuts; jumbo shrimp in a broth of garlic and tarragon; or succulent Basque chicken with grilled chorizo and roasted red peppers to savor along with a fine selection of good-value wines by the bottle or glass. Consistently fabulous food, gentle prices, and a sleek contemporary design have made this bistro an exceedingly popular choice among fashionable foodies.
This is where serious coffee drinkers go for a reliably excellent brew, meticulously sourced and roasted at their torrefactory in Lyon and brewed just how you like it, whether that's filtered, siphoned, or cold brewed. There's also a range of artisanal hot chocolates, chais, iced coffees in summer, and tasty snacks. If you doubt their seriousness, the café also hosts coffee-brewing classes. There's also a branch in the Croix Rousse, at 5 Rue Victor Fort (4e).
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