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When To Go

Midsummer can be hot and sticky. The best time of year in Lyon and the Rhône Valley is autumn, when the lakes are still warm, the grape harvest is under way, and festivals are all over the place. Note, however, that many of Lyon's hotels book early for September and October, when masses of delegates arrive for conventions. Winter tends to be dreary, though the crystal mist hovering over the Rhône can be beautiful. In the Alps summer is the time to hike, explore isolated villages, and admire the vistas; in winter the focus is on snow and skiing. Many hotels in the Alps are closed in early spring and late autumn.