South of Tours atop a vast, sloping lawn, this storybook, toy-sized, neo-Gothic château comes complete with two fairy-tale towers and a heated, terraced pool. Built in 1861, La Tortinière is now nearing perfection in all things bright and beautiful. Guest rooms in the main building convey quiet, rustic luxury; the conversation pieces are those in the two turrets, while others delight with beamed ceilings. Most beds are so comfy it's hard to wake up. In recent years the owners have smartly done up the former stables, warehouses, and servants' quarters (all just a path away from the main building). Replete with Louis XVI chairs, taffeta curtains, chiffonière tables, plate-glass windows, and air-conditioning, these are almost more alluring than the rooms in the main château. The stylish rotunda restaurant looks out over the lawn and showcases David Chartier's cuisine, including beuchelle tourangelle, sautéed veal sweetbreads with morels in white wine (no dinner Sunday, November through March). The main lawn overlooks the Indre River, bordered by a line of towering oak trees that have been trimmed back to make a "frame." The sweet life, indeed.
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