Fifty years ago Loire Valley guide books praised this domain and, delightfully, things have gotten better. Like a Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud, this hotel keeps purring along, offering many delights -- a romantic, twin-towered château, Loire River vista, tranquil guest rooms (four of the less expensive are in a charming "Pavillon Renaissance"), and an excellent restaurant. The latter is set in two salons, one in Charles-Dix golds, the other lit with chandeliers and stained-glass windows, lined with tapestries, and centered around a sculpted-wood fireplace. Just outside is the lawn terrace, where tipsy guests assemble to toast their friends with magnums of Veuve Clicquot.
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