Extraordinaire is the word for some of the dozen luxe-troglodyte rooms at this famous hotel, which stud a towering cliff-face with their elegant sash windows, gas-lantern lamps, and finished marble steps. Don't expect furnishings à la Fred Flintstone: half the guest-room walls are Ice Age, but stylish fabrics, Louis Treize seating, and carved fireplaces are the main allurements. Some prefer rooms in the regular house -- no cave-dwelling drama, but exquisitely comfortable and air-conditioned. The restaurant (closed Monday, no lunch Wednesday, no dinner Sunday) has an extremely staid decor, so most everyone repairs to the enchanting terrace to feast on a panoply of foie gras, fish and duck dishes, and architectonic desserts -- one of the best kitchens in the Loire (don't forget to order a selection from the gigantic cheese tray brought out -- at least one summer afternoon -- by a boy who seems half the size of the tray). To top it all off, a sapphire pool tempts all during the Loire's grandes chaleurs.
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