When To Go

When To Go

The Loire, the last great European river left undammed, is at its best in May and June, when it still looks like a river; come midsummer, the water level can drop, revealing unsightly sandbanks. The valley divides France in two, both geographically and climatically: north of the Loire, France has the moist, temperate climate of northern Europe; southward lies the drier climate of the Mediterranean. It's striking how changeable the weather can be as you cross the Loire. The valley can be sultry in July and August, when most of the son-et-lumière shows take place and the tourist crowds arrive. October is a good off-season option, when all is mist and mellow fruitfulness along the Loire and the mysterious pools of the Sologne, as the trees turn russet and gold. Fall is also the best time to sample regional specialties such as wild mushrooms and game. On Sunday, when most shops are closed, try to avoid the main cities -- Orléans, Tours, Angers.