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Fodor's France 2014
After the stellar success of his first Michelin-starred restaurant, L'Escarbille (in Meudon), chef Régis Douysset's newest venture confirms his commitment to refined-yet-unfussy French cuisine. The dining room, in a restored 17th-century town house, is serene and comfortable, with white walls, wood-beam ceilings, dark wood paneling, and tasteful artwork—a handsome setting in which to relax into one of the best meals in town. The seasonally changing menu offers a good balance of seafood, game, and meat: a delicate perch fillet with spaghetti de mer (in a shellfish bouillon) or the venison shoulder with grilled turnips and a spätzle of girolle mushrooms. Desserts are not to be missed—the tart feuilletée, with candied peaches, cardamom, and peach sorbet is ethereal. Having earned a Michelin star, this spot is justifiably popular, so reserve well in advance.
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