Star of the bleep-ridden Hell's Kitchen TV show, Scottish superchef Gordon Ramsay has finally arrived in France thanks to Westin's Trianon Palace hotel revamp. The ebullient "bad boy de la cuisine anglaise" has already amassed a string of restaurants worldwide, including three in New York and London's only Michelin three-star. But, although he cut his culinary teeth in the kitchens of master chefs Guy Savoy and Joël Robuchon, this is his first eatery on French soil. The delicious results—overseen by his longstanding London number two, Simone Zanoni—are predictably conversation-worthy: pig's feet and knuckle of ham with Bellota Iberico, toasted muffin, poached egg, and Hollandaise sauce; pan-fried John Dory with tourteau crab, crushed new potatoes, caviar, and basil vinaigrette; and turbot fillet with coriander and carrot tagliolini, asparagus salad, and citrus sauce. Desserts are marvels, too, with "carpaccio" of pineapple with lychee bubbles and mascarpone ice cream vying for top honors with the raspberry soufflé with chocolate and tarragon ice cream. The Trianon's more casual, 75-seat Véranda restaurant is now also under Ramsay's sway, and in its black-and-white contemporary setting you can opt for Ramsay's "light, modern take" on such bistro banalities as chicorée risotto, sautéed lobster, scallops with shiitake, and chicken with cabbage and braised shallots.
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