Gordon Ramsay au Trianon

Gordon Ramsay au Trianon Review

Gordon Ramsay has finally arrived in France thanks to Westin's Trianon Palace hotel revamp. The ebullient "bad boy de la cuisine anglaise" has already amassed a string of restaurants worldwide, including three in New York, London's only Michelin three-star, and two stars for this establishment in 2009. Although he cut his culinary teeth in the kitchens of master chefs Guy Savoy and Joël Robuchon, this is his first eatery on French soil. The delicious results—overseen by his longstanding London number two, Simone Zanoni—are predictably conversation-worthy: raviolo of langoustines and lobster cooked in a Riesling bisque with Petrossian caviar and lime consommé; or the Périgord foie gras done "2 ways," roasted with a beetroot tart and pressed with green apple and sauternes, are two top main dishes. Desserts are marvels, too, with chocolate meringue with vanilla ice cream, candied pear and black current vying for top honors with the raspberry soufflé with chocolate and tarragon ice cream. The Trianon's more casual, 75-seat Véranda restaurant is now also under Ramsay's sway, and in its black-and-white contemporary setting you can opt for Ramsay's "light, modern take" on such bistro novelties as radicchio and parmesan risotto with chorizo oil or the filet of sole in a parsley crust, cepes, and sautéed artichokes. Teatime provides a delightful (and reasonable) restorative for weary château-goers, with a French take on high tea: scones, madeleines, and heavenly macarons.