The back-to-bistro boom climaxed here when Dominique Le Stanc retired his crown at the Negresco to take over this tiny, unpretentious landmark of Provençal cuisine. Now he and his wife work in the miniature open kitchen creating the ultimate versions of stuffed sardines, pistou, slow-simmered daubes (beef stews), and the quintessential stockfish (the local lutefisk). It's one man's private mission; stop by in person to reserve entry to the inner sanctum (there are two evening seatings: 7 and 9).
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