Spreadable Edibles

Spreadable Edibles

Typical throughout Provence is a garlicky mayonnaise called aïoli, a staple condiment that's especially at home with a cold serving of fresh coastal fish. In the words of poet Frédéric Mistral, "Aïoli sums up the heat, the strength, and the joy of the Provençal sun. Its other virtue: It drives off flies." Made of mortar-crushed raw garlic whipped with egg yolk and olive oil, aïoli can bring tears to your eyes -- and later, to those of your fellow travelers. Never mind: Heap it on hard-boiled eggs, poached salt cod, or raw vegetables. And watch for it as a Friday lunch special, when all of the above appear in a Provençal smorgasbord.

Even more pungent than aïoli is the powerful paste called anchoïade. Whether spread on tiny toasts or used as a dip for raw vegetables, its base of Mediterranean anchovies provides an emphatic kick of concentrated salt and fish.

Another staple of the region is pistou, the Provençal pesto (which originates from the Italian port of Genoa, nearby). Made of a savory blend of basil, garlic, Parmesan, and olive oil, minus the pine nuts found in Italian pesto, it shows up in soupe au pistou (reminiscent of minestrone), pâtes (pasta) au pistou, and as a sauce for almost anything.