Appearances deceive at this traditional town house just off Place Royale, a few feet from the cathedral. Inside, it has an updated Art Deco feel with plush eggplant-hued carpets and sleek, chic chairs. Chef Laurent Laplaige, seconded by Frédéric Dupont, finds an outlet for his decorative artistry in colorful food presented on elegant white plates. Stunning specialties range from John Dory panfried in hazelnut butter and served with sweet potato, snails, and an aniseed sauce, to fillet of beef accompanied by stuffed zucchini flowers and celery puree. Dessert dazzlers include a chocolate sphere filled with chocolate cream and orange compote.