Homey-meets-elegant feel is on glorious show in four 17th-century buildings at this charmingly rustic riverside hotel and restaurant (once owned by actress Leslie Caron), where guest rooms are Maison et Jardin-ready. The "Loft" is an enormous wood-beam aerie atop the house (the bathroom is in the room itself, just as it was in the rip-roaring days of the 1680s), while "The Suite" glows with a portrait of Sarah Bernhardt. The centerpiece is the Owl's Nest restaurant,
which caresses the eye with its lovely whitewashed brick and ingenious twisted rope chandeliers and now more than ever represents excellent value for money. In summer enjoy the terrace over the Yonne. The town itself, a bastide (fortified town, built on a grid pattern), is entered and exited via sturdy, angular 13th- and 14th-century gateways.