This bright, beautiful Napoléon III–style restaurant is the perfect showcase for Chef Jean-Pierre Billoux's golden touch, which can turn the lowliest farmyard chicken into a palate-pleasing pièce de résistance—the roast volaille de Bresse with truffle purée is a case in point. Most house specialties are inventive, like cod poached in saffron-infused milk, or, to finish, chocolate cannelloni filled with chocolate and hazelnut garnache. The welcome is always
convivial, and the wine list features the region's best—though not necessarily best-known—winemakers. The lunch menu is a startling introduction to modern Burgundian cuisine.