Fodor's Expert Review La Closerie de Kerdrain

Ebullient chef Fernando Corfmat presides over the kitchen in this charming 17th-century town-center manor draped in wisteria. His seasonal menus highlight fresh ingredients prepared in innovative ways and served with panache: picture poached wild sea bass with pistachios in a vinaigrette passion, a scallop-and-truffle carpaccio, or Val d'Anjou pigeon with sautéed duck liver. When available, the sweet-and-sour lemon pie with a salad of oranges in mango juice is the perfect way to end the meal.