Experience Brittany

"Finistère," or "land's end," is what a part of Brittany is called, and the name suits the entire region. A long arm of rocky land stretching into the Atlantic, Brittany lives to the rhythm of tides and winds, with its own language and legends. The people are Bretons first, rather than French, Celtic rather than Latin, and proud of their difference.

They are also proud of their land -- with reason. Here you'll find time-defying monuments and customs in awe-inspiring landscapes, such as those at Pont-Aven, which once inspired Gauguin (sigh -- this charming town now has more art galleries than France has little yapping dogs). Although some people leave the prehistoric megaliths of Carnac in disappointment -- some say they just look like a bunch of standing stones surrounded by an equal number of tourists -- they remain the gateway attraction to the sandy peninsula of the Côte Sauvage, where birds and flowers abound. The craftspeople in Quimper carry on a centuries-old practice of hand-painting delicate-looking faïence wares. Tides bathe the foot of St-Malo's impressive fortifications, still haunted by phantom pirates. A trip across the waters to the aptly named Belle-Ile, or "beautiful island," will take you to heaths of yellow broom, fine beaches, and quaint towns.

Today Nantes, the working-class heart of the province, pumps the economy of the region and provides a daily swig of Breton life, while Rennes, the student-fueled mind, gives way to poets and painters, bringing a refreshing breeze to the region. Other sites include the elegant Belle Époque resort of Dinard and the granite splendors of the Corniche Bretonne, replete with those famous pink-granite boulders.

The closer you get to the sea, the more authentic Brittany seems to become. And the more xenophobic -- S'il te mordent, mords-les ("If they bite, bite them back") goes one of the local sayings. And some of those waterside hotels, come July and August, believe in those let's-milk-tourists-for-all-they're-worth prices. Still and all, Brittany remains a rare gift from the sea.