An elegant, contemporary menu, an intimate setting in the less-touristed Chartrons neighborhood, and a famous chef make this restaurant a star address. Anne-Marie (daughter of culinary legend Pierre Troisgros) married Yves Gravelier, and they combine their talents here. The attitude is unpretentious; the decor sparse and light; and the cuisine imaginative. For proof try carpaccio of duck with fried foie gras and watermelon, or veal in a sorrel sauce with morel mushrooms. The lunch menu is a good value.