Just around the corner from the cathedral is an eatery that is almost as exalted. Behind red-checked curtains you can find artists, tourists, lovers, and heads of state sitting elbow-to-elbow in this classic winstub, founded in 1873. All come to savor steaming platters of local specialties: watch for pike-perch on choucroute, braised ham hocks, and quails stuffed with foie gras. Warm Alsatian fabrics dress tables, the china is regional, the photos historic—all making
for chic, not kitsch.