Fodor's Expert Review Kosmos

Just a short walk from the Stockmann department store, this cozy restaurant has become a lunchtime favorite; come evening it's given over to artists and journalists. Menu highlights draw on Scandinavian and Russian elements and include reindeer, fried vendace, perch, trout, and cèpe mushrooms. Chilled chocolate cheesecake makes a superb dessert. The high ceilings and understated interior lend a Scandinavian air of simplicity and elegance. Happily, some things never change, and Kosmos has retained its character since 1924.