This handsome, comfortable hotel near the train station—not surprising, considering it was formerly the headquarters of the regional railroad—was built in 1906 and retains many original features, such as solid mahogany doors, beautiful tilework on the stairwells, and art nouveau ironwork. There is nothing officelike about the spacious bedrooms: they're sleek and contemporary, with king-size beds, good soundproofing, and well-equipped bathrooms with under-floor heating.
There are two restaurants: the excellent Hudson offers an inventive take on Modern British classics like steak and ale pie, and the intimate HQ goes for a more formal, fine dining approach. There's also a highly proficient spa. The total effect is luxurious but down-to-earth—a city hotel par excellence.