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Fodor's England 2014
Winchester Cathedral Review
The city's greatest monument, begun in 1079 and consecrated in 1093, presents a sturdy, chunky appearance in keeping with its Norman construction, so that the Gothic lightness within is even more breathtaking. Its tower, transepts, and crypt, and the inside core of the great Perpendicular nave, reveal some of the world's best surviving examples of Norman architecture. Other features, such as the arcades, the presbytery (behind the quire, holding the high altar), and the windows, are Gothic alterations carried out between the 12th and 14th centuries. Little of the original stained glass has survived, except in the large window over the entrance. When Cromwell's troops ransacked the cathedral in the 17th century, locals hid away bits of stained glass they found on the ground so that it could later be replaced. The Library and Triforium Gallery contains the Winchester Bible, one of the finest remaining 12th-century illuminated manuscripts.
Among the many well-known people buried in the cathedral are William the Conqueror's son, William II ("Rufus"), mysteriously murdered in the New Forest in 1100; Izaak Walton (1593–1683), author of The Compleat Angler, whose memorial window in Silkestede's Chapel was paid for by "the fishermen of England and America"; and Jane Austen, whose grave lies in the north aisle of the nave. The tombstone makes no mention of Austen's literary status, though a brass plaque in the wall, dating from 80 years after her death, celebrates her achievements, and modern panels provide an overview of her life and work. Firmly in the 20th century, Antony Gormley's evocative statue Sound II (1986) looms in the crypt, as often as not standing in water (as it was designed to do), because of seasonal flooding. You can also explore the bell tower—with far-reaching views in fair weather—and other recesses of the building on a tour. Special services or ceremonies may mean the cathedral is closed to visits, so call ahead. Outside the cathedral, explore the Close, the area to the south of the cathedral that boasts neat lawns and the Deanery, Dome Alley, and Cheyney Court.
- Address: The Close, Cathedral Precincts Winchester, SO23 9LS | Map It
- Phone: 01962/857200
- Cost: Cathedral £7.50; bell tower £6; cathedral and bell tower £9.50
- Hours: Cathedral Mon.–Sat. 10–4 (last admission 3), Sun. 12:30–2:30. Library and Triforium Gallery Apr.–Oct., Mon. 2–4, Tues.–Sat. and national holidays 10:30–4; Nov.–Mar., Sat. 10:30–3:30. Free tours on the hr Mon.–Sat. 10–3, bell tower tours May–Sept., Mon. and Fri. 2:15, Sat. 11:30 and 2:15; Oct.–mid-Nov., Jan.–Apr., Wed. 2:15, Sat. 11:30 and 2:15; late Nov.–Dec., "twilight tower tour," see website for details
- Website: www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk
- Location: Winchester
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