Small but sleek, this restaurant with an open fire and artfully battered floorboards has won a good local reputation for high-quality dishes. The vegetarian selections are always worthwhile, and the sometimes-adventurous Modern British cooking shows Mediterranean flourishes. Damson plum-and-pork sausages come with mashed potatoes and a red wine jus, and the fresh mussels are cooked in a curry sauce. Excellent lunches and the fixed-price early dinners (5:30–7 weekdays)
are especially good values.