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Windsor Castle Review

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Windsor Castle

Phone: 020/7766-7304 tickets; 01753/831118 recorded information
www.royalresidences.com

Category: Castles/Palaces
Location: Windsor

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Fodor's Review:

The imposing turrets and towers of Windsor Castle are visible for miles. From William the Conqueror to Queen Victoria, the kings and queens of England added towers and wings to the brooding structure, and it's now the largest inhabited castle in the world. Despite the multiplicity of hands involved in its design, the palace manages to have a unity of style and character. The most impressive view of Windsor Castle is from the A332 road, coming into town from the south.

William the Conqueror began work on the castle in the 11th century, and Edward III modified and extended it in the mid-1300s. One of Edward's largest contributions was the enormous and distinctive Round Tower. Finally, between 1824 and 1837, George IV transformed the still essentially medieval castle into the fortified royal palace you see today. Most of England's kings and queens have demonstrated their undying attachment to the castle, the only royal residence in continuous use by the Royal Family since the Middle Ages.

As you enter the castle, Henry VIII's gateway leads uphill into the wide castle precincts, where you are free to wander. Across from the entrance is the exquisite St. George's Chapel (closed Sunday). Here lie 10 of the kings of England, including Henry VI, Charles I, and Henry VIII (Jane Seymour is the only one of his six wives buried here). One of the noblest buildings in England, the chapel was built in the Perpendicular style popular in the 15th and 16th centuries, with elegant stained-glass windows, a high, vaulted ceiling, and intricately carved choir stalls. The colorful heraldic banners of the Knights of the Garter—the oldest British Order of Chivalry, founded by Edward III in 1348—hang in the choir. The ceremony in which the knights are installed as members of the order has been held here with much pageantry for more than five centuries.

The North Terrace provides especially good views across the Thames to Eton College, perhaps the most famous of Britain's exclusive "public" boys' schools. From the terrace, you enter the State Apartments, which are open to the public when the Queen is not in residence (call in advance to see if they're open). Queen Elizabeth uses the castle far more than any of her predecessors did. It has become a sort of country weekend home. As such, it's a rather sleepy place most of the time. To see it come magnificently alive, check out the Windsor Castle Changing of the Guard, which takes place at 11 AM weekdays and Saturday from April through July and on odd-numbered weekdays and Saturday from August through March. Because the dates are changeable, it's a good idea to confirm the exact schedule before traveling to Windsor. When the Queen is in town, the guard and a regimental band parade through town to the castle gate; when she is away, a drum-and-fife band takes over.

Although a devastating fire in 1992 gutted some of the State Apartments, hardly any works of art were lost. Phenomenal repair work restored the Grand Reception Room, the Green and Crimson Drawing Rooms, and the State and Octagonal dining rooms. A green oak hammer-beam (a short horizontal roof beam that projects from the tops of walls for support) roof looms magnificently over the 600-year-old St. George's Hall, where the Queen gives state banquets. The State Apartments contain priceless furniture, including a magnificent Louis XVI bed and Gobelin tapestries; and paintings by Canaletto, Rubens, Van Dyck, Holbein, Dürer, and del Sarto. The high points of the tour are the Throne Room and the Waterloo Chamber, where Sir Thomas Lawrence's portraits of Napoléon's victorious foes line the walls. You can also see arms and armor and an exhibition on the restoration of Windsor Castle.

Queen Mary's Doll's House, on display to the left of the entrance to the State Apartments, is a perfect miniature Georgian palace-within-a-palace, created in 1923. Electric lights glow, the doors all have tiny little keys, and water pours from the small faucets. A miniature library holds Lilliputian-size books especially written for the young Queen by famous authors of the 1920s.

Cost: £13.50 for Precincts, State Apartments, Gallery, St. George's Chapel (closed Sun.), Albert Memorial Chapel, and Doll's House; £7 when State Apartments are closed
Open: Mar.-Oct., daily 9:45-5:15, last admission at 4; Nov.-Feb., daily 9:45-4:15, last admission at 3

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