Business moguls and sophisticated foodies can be found sampling an aperitif in a comfy armchair before moving to the sleek, slate-floor dining room at Purnell's. This high spot in the business district, in a Victorian terra-cotta and redbrick building, is where chef Glyn Purnell creates his adventurous Modern British fare. Devonshire crab comes with an apple and celeriac puree and smoked paprika honeycomb, while the wreck fish is accompanied by a "risotto" of coconut and cauliflower. Menus are designed to be shared by the whole table. Prices at lunchtime are half what they are in the evening.