For Hyde Park Corner read "hero's corner"; even in the subway, beneath the turmoil of traffic, the Duke of Wellington's heroic exploits are retold in murals. The years of war against the French, and the subsequent final defeat of Napoléon at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815 made Wellington—Arthur Wellesley—the greatest soldier and statesman in the land. The house is flanked by imposing statues: opposite is the 1828 Decimus Burton Wellington Arch with the four-horse chariot of peace at its pinnacle (open to the public as an exhibition area and viewing platform). Just behind Apsley House, and cast from captured French guns, the legendary Achilles statue points the way with thrusting shield to the ducal mansion from the edge of Hyde Park. Next to Apsley House is the elaborate gateway to the royal park, designed and built by Burton at the same time as the Wellington Arch.
Once popularly known as No. 1, London, because it was the first and grandest house at the old tollgate from Knightsbridge village, this was long celebrated as the best address in town. Built by Robert Adam and later refaced and extended, it housed the Duke of Wellington from 1817 until his death in 1852. As the Wellington Museum, it has been faithfully restored, down to Wellesley's uniforms, weapons, a fine collection of paintings, and his porcelain and plate collections acquired as a result of his military success, such as a Sévres dessert service commissioned by Napoléon for his empress, Josephine. His extensive art collection, much of it presented to him by admirers, includes works by Brueghel, Van Dyck, and Rubens, as well as the famous Veláquez portrait of Pope Innocent X and a portrait of Wellington himself on horseback by Goya. There are also numerous portraits of military comrades, allies, and even his main adversary, Napoléon Bonaparte. The free audio guide highlights the most significant works and the superb décor, notably the stunning Waterloo Gallery, where an annual banquet for officers who fought beside Wellington was held. With its heavily sculpted and gilded ceiling, its feast of old-master paintings on red damask walls, and commanding candelabra, it's a veritable orgy of opulence. Special events take place on the annual Waterloo weekend and occasionally on Waterloo Day (June 18) itself, in addition to other special events throughout the year. Call or check the Web site for details.
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