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Westminster Abbey Review

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Westminster Abbey

Member Rating: ***** 5.0 | Rate It

Fodor's Review:

A monument to the nation's rich -- and often bloody and scandalous -- history, the abbey rises on the Thames skyline as one of London's most iconic sites. Nearly all of Britain's monarchs have been crowned here since the coronation of William the Conqueror on Christmas Day 1066 -- and most are buried here, too. The abbey's majestic main nave is packed with memories (and, often, crowds), as it has witnessed many splendid royal events. Other than the mysterious gloom of the vast interior, the first thing that strikes most people is the proliferation of statues, tombs, and commemorative tablets. In parts, the building seems more like a stonemason's yard than a place of worship. But in its latter capacity, this landmark truly comes into its own. Although attending a service is not something to undertake purely for sightseeing reasons, it provides a glimpse of the abbey in its full majesty, with the service accompanied by music from the Westminster choristers and the organ that composer Henry Purcell once played.

The current abbey is a largely 13th- and 14th-century rebuilding of the 11th-century church founded by Edward the Confessor, with one notable addition being the 18th-century twin towers over the west entrance, designed by Sir Christopher Wren and completed by Nicholas Hawksmoor. Entering by the north door to follow the one-way route through the abbey, what you see first on your left are the extravagant 18th-century monuments of statesmen in the north transept, as well as the north-transept chapels. Look up to your right to see the painted-glass rose window, the largest of its kind. At many points the view of the abbey is crowded by the many statues and screens; to your right is the mostly 19th-century choir screen (part is 13th-century), while to the left is the sacrarium, containing the medieval kings' tombs that screen the Chapel of St. Edward (because of its fragility the shrine is closed off, unless you take a tour with the verger -- ask at the admission desk when you enter). Continuing to the foot of the Henry VII Chapel steps, you can still see the hot seat of power, the Coronation Chair, which has been graced by nearly every royal posterior. Then proceed into one of the architectural glories of Britain, the Henry VII Chapel (also known as the Lady Chapel), passing the huge white marble tomb of Elizabeth I, buried with her half-sister, "Bloody" Mary I, whose death she ordered. All around the chapel are magnificent sculptures of saints, philosophers, and kings, with mermaids and monsters carved on the choir-stall misericords (undersides), and exquisite fan vaulting above (binoculars will help you spot the statues high on the walls) -- the last riot of medieval design in England and one of the miracles of Western architecture.

Continue to Poets' Corner; in 1400 Geoffrey Chaucer became the first poet to be buried here. There are memorials to William Shakespeare, William Blake, and Charles Dickens (who is also buried here). Outside the west front is an archway into the quiet, green Dean's Yard and the entrance to the Cloisters. If time allows, visit the Chapter House, a stunning octagonal room, adorned with 14th-century frescoes, where the King's Council met between 1257 and 1547. The Abbey Museum is in the Undercroft, which survives from Edward the Confessor's original church. The museum includes effigies made from the death masks and actual clothing of Charles II and Admiral Lord Nelson, among other fascinating relics. Adjoining these rooms, the Little Cloister is a quiet haven. Just beyond, the College Garden, under cultivation for more than 900 years, is planted with medicinal herbs. As you return to the abbey, look again at the truly awe-inspiring nave. Pause for the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior, an anonymous World War I martyr who lies buried here in memory of the soldiers fallen in both world wars.

Arrive early if possible, but be prepared to wait in line to tour the abbey. You can rent an audio guide (£3) or ask the information desk about 90-minute verger-led tours (£4). Photography is not permitted.

  • Cost: Abbey and museum £10
  • Open: Abbey, weekdays 9:30-3:45, Wed. until 6, Saturday 9:30-1:45; closes 1 hr after last admission. Museum, daily 10:30-4. Cloisters daily 8-6. College Garden, Apr.-Sept., Tues.-Thurs., 10-6; Oct.-Mar., Tues.-Thurs. 10-4. Chapter House, daily 10-4. Services may cause changes to hrs, so call ahead.
  • Tube: Westminster

Member Reviews & Ratings:

One of the two must-see churches in London

Posted by bachslunch from US on 4/6/08
Beautifully ornate Gothic style church, an absolute must. Loads of people buried here: scientists Isaac Newton and Charles Darwin, composers George F. Handel and Henry Purcell, writers Geoffrey Chaucer and Alfred Lord Tennyson, prime minister William Gladstone, several older era British monarchs such as Elizabeth I. Small museum worth a quick peek. Entrance lines can get long -- probably best to make this your first stop in the Westminster sightseeing area.

Experience: 5.0 Ease: 5.0 Value: 5.0 Don't Miss: 5.0 RATING: 5.0

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