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Buckingham Palace Review

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Buckingham Palace

Fodor's Review:

Buckingham Palace tops many a must-see list and has become perhaps the symbol of the royal family -- although the building itself is no masterpiece and has housed the monarch only since Victoria (1819-1901) moved here from Kensington Palace on her accession in 1837. Compared to other great houses and palaces in London, it's a more modern affair. Originally Buckingham House and the home of George III, it was remodeled by John Nash on the accession of George IV in 1820. Nash overspent his budget by about half a million pounds and was dismissed by Parliament after George's death. Although Queen Victoria added the east front (by Edward Blore, facing the Mall) to accommodate her prodigious state entertaining, Nash's gorgeous designs can still be enjoyed at the core of the palace. The Portland stone facade dates only from 1913 (the same stone used for the Victoria Memorial outside the Palace and Admiralty Arch at the foot of the Mall), and the interior was renovated and redecorated only after it sustained World War II bomb damage.

The palace contains 19 state rooms, 52 royal and guest bedrooms, 188 staff bedrooms, 92 offices, and 78 bathrooms -- a prerequisite for the 450 people who work there, and the mere 50,000 who are entertained during the year. The private royal apartments are in the north wing; when the Queen is in residence, the royal standard is raised. The state rooms are where much of the business of royalty is played out -- investitures, state banquets, and receptions for the great and good -- and these are open to the public while the royal family is away during the summer. A visit makes for a fascinating glimpse into another world: the fabulously gilt interiors are not merely museum pieces but pomp and pageantry at work. Highlights of the tour include the Quadrangle, bordered by the many offices and apartments for employees in this extraordinary miniature village. Beyond the gates you may see the changing of the guard, which adds to the experience. The Grand Hall, followed by the Grand Staircase and Guard Room, gives a taste of what's to follow: lines of cool marble pillars, gold leaf galore on ceilings and walls, and light, bright rooms with massive, twinkling chandeliers. Nash's ornate designs unfold through the numerous drawing rooms -- beginning with the Green Drawing Room -- each equally spectacular, filled with treasures brought from the Prince Regent's original palatial home, Carlton House. (Some of the most exquisite pieces in the world, such as the cabinet with gemstone-decorated panels and the precious Sèvres porcelain, found their way to the palace after the French Revolution.) The Throne Room, in opulent theatrical baroque style, has the original 1953 coronation throne, among others. The Picture Gallery is a feast of renowned art. The collection was begun by Charles I, and includes masterpieces by Rubens, Vermeer, Van Dyck, Cuyp, and Canaletto. (More from the Royal Collection can be seen in the Queen's Gallery, near the south side of the palace.) The Ballroom has videos of royal events, and you can also see the dubbing sword used in the investitures held here, where the Queen touches those to become "Sirs" and "Dames." The State Dining Room, with its elaborate ceiling and walls of kingly portraits, has views over the palace gardens. The Blue Drawing Room is splendor in overkill and the set for prebanquet drinks. The bow-shaped Music Room features lapis lazuli columns between arched floor-to-ceiling windows, while the White Drawing Room is a sensation of white-and-gold plasterwork: a crescendo on which to end the tour.

Unless you have an invitation to one of the Queen's summer garden parties, the most you'll see of the 45-acre grounds is a walk along the south side. This addition to the tour gives views of the garden (west) front of the palace and the 19th-century lake. The walled oasis has plenty of wildlife -- it contains more than 350 types of wildflowers.

Behind the front palace gates, theChanging of the Guard, with all the ceremony monarchists and children adore, remains one of London's best free shows and culminates in front of the palace. Marching to live music, the guards proceed up the Mall from St. James's Palace to Buckingham Palace. Shortly afterward, the replacement guard approaches from Wellington Barracks via Birdcage Walk. Then within the forecourt, the old guard symbolically hands over the keys to the palace to the replacement guard. The ceremony, more properly known as Guard Mounting, lasts about 45 minutes and usually takes place on schedule, but the guards sometimes cancel because of bad weather; check the signs in the forecourt or phone. Get there by 10:30 AM to grab a spot in the best viewing section at the gate facing the palace, since most of the hoopla takes place behind the railings in the forecourt. Be sure to prebook tour reservations of the palace with a credit card by phone.

  • Cost: £15, includes audio tour, credit-card reservations subject to booking charge
  • Open: Late July-late Sept., daily 9:45-6, last admission 3:45; confirm dates, which are subject to Queen's mandate. Changing of the Guard Apr.-July, daily 11:30 AM; Aug.-Mar., alternating days only 11:30 AM
  • Credit Cards: AE, MC, V
  • Tube: Victoria, St. James's Park

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