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Fodor's London 2014
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It's a triumph of taste over technology at wunderkind Ollie Dabbous's extraordinary game-changer off Charlotte Street. Startlingly stripped-back, pure, inventive, and seasonally based new-wave dishes elicit Oohs!, Aahhs!, Wows! and Oh-my-goshes!! in a flummery-free NYC–industrial chic setting of exposed concrete, overhead ducting, and heavy metal screens and cages. Phenomenal flavors abound. Dishes like peas and mint ping your taste buds with frozen mint tea, edible violets, and broad-bean flowers, and a coddled hen's egg with woodland mushrooms and smoked butter sits handsomely in a cute bowl of hay. Palette-popping barbecued Ibèrico pork with acorn praline, turnip tops, and apple vinegar; halibut with coastal herbs (sea aster and oyster leaf); and brittle and crumbly chocolate ganache with green basil moss are instant classics, and set Dabbous apart as one of London's most dazzling young talents. Sorry: you have to book months ahead.
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