You feel quite the foodie insider once you finally find the quirky Rochelle Canteen—it's set in the old former bicycle shed at the restored Victorian-era Rochelle School (off Arnold Circus in Shoreditch, not far from Liverpool Street and the trendy boutiques of Redchurch Street). Ring a buzzer next to a pale blue door, go in through the "Boys" entrance (passing a former playground), and enter chef Margot Henderson's long white, austere canteen which has an open kitchen
and two long Formica tables, Ercol chairs, and Shaker coat pegs on the wall. Gloriously understated British fare arrives at a leisurely pace, from simple devilled kidneys on toast to a retro plate of Yorkshire ham and parsley sauce. Bump along with the Frieze London art, architecture, and designer crowd, and enjoy seasonal guinea fowl with bacon, or skate and capers, and finish with lemon posset or quince jelly. Note it's BYO (£5 corkage), and only open 9 am to 4:30 pm weekedays for breakfast, elevenses, lunch, and tea.