Rochelle Canteen

Rochelle Canteen Review

You feel quite the foodie insider once you've finally found the quirky Rochelle Canteen—it is set in the renovated bicycle shed of the old restored Victorian-era Rochelle School (off Arnold Circus in Shoreditch, not far from the boutiques of Redchurch St. and Liverpool Street station). Ring a buzzer next to a pale blue door, go in through the "Boys" entrance (passing a former playground) and enter chef Margot Henderson's long white, austere "canteen," which has an open kitchen and two long Formica tables, Ercol school chairs, and Shaker pegs on the wall. Gloriously understated British fare arrives at a convivial pace, from simple devilled kidneys on toast to a retro plate of Yorkshire ham, carrots, and parsley sauce. Bump along with the art/architecture/designer crowd, and enjoy seasonal guinea fowl with bacon, or skate and capers, and finish with quince jelly or lemon posset. Note it is no-liquor-license BYO (£5 corkage), and only open Monday to Friday, for breakfast, elevenses, lunch, and tea.