Mari Vanna Review
This kitsch White Russian fantasy dining salon in Knightsbridge overflows with a maximalist decor of vintage chandeliers, books, pics, knick-knacks, Tiffany lamps, tchotchkes, mirrors, Cheburashkas, and a Russian pechka stove. Note the crochet and linen-covered tables tended by chirpy staff (some in dirndls) and dishes proffered with what feels like great aunt Vanna's old family silver and jumbled crockery. Then snap into character with a horseradish vodka shot or three, and carb-up on pierogi sea bass savories, clear Siberian Pelmeni dumpling soup, or feather-light smoked salmon blinis. There's good borscht and creamy beef Stroganoff with mash and wild mushrooms, and lest we forget the sweet crêpes with condensed milk. But it's the nostalgic dacha-like antebellum home-away-from-home setting that makes you feel like you're participating in some kind of Anna Karenina-esque historical reenactment.