Only a loony or genius would serve an appetizer of half a Cévennes onion with a few pear shavings and beurre blanc, but luckily maverick Swedish chef Mikael Jonsson falls triumphantly in the latter camp at his wild foodie haven. A former lawyer and prolific food blogger, Jonsson's obsessive approach to the provenance of his largely British-sourced ingredients—very often wild, rare, or foraged—means that his dishes are some of the most vivid and intense
around. Sit up on stools and watch Jonsson in an open kitchen prepare ingredient-driven marvels like wild Dorset sea bass with pickled black radishes and hyssop oil, hand-caught Devon scallops with a strikingly stuffed zucchini flower, or gloriously marbled 55-day-aged Darragh O'Shea Black Angus beef on the bone with juniper-smoked potatoes. For afters, a Cox and cobnut tart or English blueberries with rosemary sorbet are as lucid as the mains. Book far in advance.