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Is it the hours of foot kneading—albeit under canvas, to allay hygene concerns—that makes the hand-pulled Sanuki udon wheat-flour noodles here so springy, spongy, slurpy, and so addictive? Lines of Japanese diners and hip and heritage-clad Soho-ites are a testament to the allure of the tasty dishes served at this tiny Zen-like cult udon-ya, or noodle house, on Frith St. Once inside, start with cold udon on a bamboo basket with pungent miso and pickled pork, and then—if you're up for it—slurp hot udon with smoked mackerel and Japanese green leaves, or fried tofu and green onions. There's also pickled plums, prawn tempora, duck-and-rice-in-a-bowl all-in-ones, seaweed salad, slow-cooked onsen tamago poached eggs, and braised pork belly dishes, but it's the mighty udon noodle that prevails.
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