This open-kitchen Italian restaurant sets the standard with its simple roasts, fresh salads, pastas, and char-grilled meats. Chefs Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers source ultrafresh, impeccable seasonal ingredients, so expect squid with rocket and chili, handmade nettle-and-nutmeg pasta, and wood-roasted Castle Mey beef with fennel and marjoram (£29)—plus one of London's highest bills. This is in distant Hammersmith, so if you snag an evening table, remember that you'll need to book a cab ahead or walk about 10 minutes to the closest Tube. Note that tables are cleared by 11 PM on weekdays, and 11:20 PM Friday and Saturday.
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