St. John

Reserve

St. John Review

Foodies travel the world for pioneering chef Fergus Henderson's ultra-British nose-to-tail cooking at this no-frills stark-white converted smokehouse in Clerkenwell. Henderson uses all parts of a carcass, and his waste-not, want-not chutzpah is laudable: one appetizer is pigskin, and others, like ox heart or pig's ear and calves' brain and chichory, are marginally less extreme. Signatures like bone marrow and parsley salad, or chitterlings with dandelion, appear stark on the plate, but arrive with aplomb. Expect a cracking all-French wine list and finish with quince jelly, Eccles cakes, or half a dozen golden Madeleines.