Gastronauts travel the globe for pioneering Brit-chef Fergus Henderson's nose-to-tail cuisine at this puritan stark-white converted former ham-and-bacon smokehouse near historic Smithfield Market. Henderson famously uses all scraps of a carcass, and his waste not, want not chutzpah chimes increasingly with London's age of austerity: one appetizer is pig's skin and others like ox heart, rolled pig's spleen, or calves' brain and chicory are marginally less extreme.
Open since 1994, long standing St. John signatures like bone marrow and parsley salad, chitterlings with dandelion, or pheasant and pig's trotter pie appear stark on the plate, but arrive with aplomb. Look out for a metropolitan art-and-designer crowd, who enjoy feasting meals for the table, like whole roast suckling pig or braised venison with red wine sauce. Finish with Eccles cakes, Lancashire cheese, or half a dozen golden madeleines.