Fans travel the globe for Fergus Henderson's ultra-British cooking at this stark-white converted smokehouse in Clerkenwell. His chutzpah is galling: one appetizer is pigskin, and others, like ox heart, pig's tongue, gizzard, or pig nose and tail, are marginally less extreme. Dishes from bone marrow and parsley, or chitterlings and dandelion appear stark on the plate but arrive with aplomb. Expect an all-French wine list, plus malmseys and port. Finish with rhubarb trifle and Eccles cakes.
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