South of the river between London and Tower bridges, and a hop from the London Assembly headquarters, Magdalen is a beacon of class in an otherwise dowdy part of town. It majors in inventive Modern British cuisine at keen prices; Devon crab with avocado (£6.50), veal with broad beans (£16.50), wild turbot with samphire (£20), and rum baba for £6 will hardly break the bank. With civilized dark-wood and aubergine surroundings, sit back with a clever 70-bottle wine list that carries 11 by the carafe.
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