Italian Lorenzo Stella has welcomed people back to these early-18th-century row houses, a short walk up one of Hampstead's magnificent hills, for more than 20 years. His restaurant has been going for nearly 40 years. Make no mistake: rooms are tiny, with showers only, but many have canopy or four-poster beds, and all are sweetly designed. In the enclosed courtyard there's a raised summer patio. Pros: pretty area of town; friendly guesthouse. Cons: a bit of a journey to central London; few services; no elevator.
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