Serious cuisine at midrange prices has established Arbutus in the winners' enclosure of favorite Soho eateries. The £15.50 three-course lunch or £17.50 pretheater special are bargains of the year. Chef Anthony Demetre might surprise with squid-and-mackerel burger, rabbit and cottage pie, or pollack and tomato jam, and finishes off with apple-and-blackberry charlotte. All wines are offered in third-of-a-bottle carafes—a great way to sample new wines.
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