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Fodor's London 2014
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Owner, sommelier, and former pro rugby union player Thierry Tomasin scores a brilliant individual try with his distinctive French brasserie tucked away behind Lancaster Gate. Styled with Art Nouveau mirrors and button-back banquettes in a 200-year-old converted former pub, Angelus has a rep for intricate and unrivaled Paris-style brasserie de luxe dishes. The duck liver crème brûlée, egg cocotte, frog's legs, loin of venison, or Grand Marnier soufflé are as good as can be. Classy £16 breakfasts, all-day brunch and light bites like omelettes, steak sandwichs or pichounette short-eats, are well conceived, and service is notoriously—how should we say it?—...Gallic! Ex-Le Gavroche sommelier Tomasin is sure to select a kinky bottle from the off-beat French-focused wine list.
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