Aussie chef Brett Graham wins hearts, minds—and serious global accolades—at this high-ceilinged neighborhood destination modern French (with Pacific and British hints) dining landmark. In a handsome four-square salon full of drapes, mirrored walls, and plush cream leather seats, you won't find a more inventive vegetable dish than Graham's ash-baked celeriac with hazelnut and wood sorrel, and it's impossible to best his complex mains like roast quail with walnut
cream, roe deer with bone marrow, or Cornish turbot with Reisling, cockles, and sea lettuce. Besides his obsessive interest in game, Graham's famed for wicked desserts, so why not finish with thinly sliced figs with honey, olives, and sourdough ice cream? The assured service and sommelier round out this winning proposition.