There's always an upscale buzz at this star of the Brompton Road dining scene, not far from the V&A and Harrods. This smooth-running chic-and-fantastique classic French brasserie de luxe excels in doing the simple things well—and not costing the earth. Veteran chef Henry Harris's signature dishes like roast partridge and juniper, foie gras with Calvados, soft roe on toast, skate wing or deep-fried calf's brains, and not-for-the-faint-hearted tête
de veau—poached calf's head—all hit the high notes and come with a certain Gallic aplomb. While the tables may be a touch too close together and the wine's a little dear, lots of the healthy-looking patrons are stealth wealth loyal local Knightsbridge regulars, and indeed many also seem to cherish the handy £15.50 to £17.75 prix fixe lunch or early evening deals.