K
Hyde Park. Along with the smaller St. James's and Green parks to the east, Hyde Park started as Henry VIII's hunting grounds. Along its south side runs Rotten Row, once Henry's royal path to the hunt—the name is a corruption of route du roi (route of the king). It's still used by the Household Cavalry, who live at the Hyde Park Barracks—a high-rise and a low, ugly, red block—to the left. This is where the brigade that mounts the guard at Buckingham Palace resides, and you can see them leave to perform their duty, in full regalia, at about 10:30, or await the return of the guard about noon. Hyde Park is wonderful for strolling, watching the locals, or just relaxing by the Serpentine, the long body of water near its southern border. On the south side, by the 1930s Serpentine Lido, is the site of the Diana Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain, which opened in 2003 and is a good spot to refuel at one of the cafés. On Sunday, Speakers' Corner, in the park near Marble Arch, is an unmissable spectacle of vehement, sometimes comical, and always entertaining orators.
Horses are available here for hacking the sand tracks. Goup lessons (usually just a few people) are £49 per person per hour. Private lessons are £69 Tuesday-Friday, £85 on weekends. 85 Bathurst Mews, Bayswater, er. 020/7723-2813. www.hydeparkstables.com. Tube: Lancaster Gate.
You can rent paddleboats and rowboats here for use on the Serpentine. 020/7262-1330. £6 per person per hour. Mar.-Oct. daily 10-5, later in good weather in summer.
On Friday, skaters of intermediate ability and upward meet at 8 PM at the Duke of Wellington Arch, Hyde Park Corner, for this enthusiastic two-hour mass skating session, complete with music and whistles. If you're a bit unsure on your wheels, arrive at 7:30PM for the free lesson on how to stop. The Sunday Rollerstroll, a more laidback version of the same thing, runs on Sunday afternoons—meet at 2 PM on the east side of the Serpentine Road Free. www.thefns.com. Tube: Hyde Park Corner.
It's technically a beach on a lake, but on a hot day in Hyde Park this is surreally reminiscent of the seaside. There are changing facilities, and the swimming section is chlorinated. There is also a paddling pool, sandpit, and kids' entertainer in the afternoons. 020/7706-7098. www.lidohydepark.co.uk. £4. June-Sept. daily 10-5:30. Tube: Knighsbridge.
Reviewed by bachslunch from US on 4/2/08
Of the four parks in the vicinity of central London, this is probably the best, with a wide open and relaxed feel, nice statuary, pleasant little lake. Blends right into Kensington Gardens, which is just as enjoyable.
Visit the Travel Talk forums for help on planning your trip