"Without Soy Sauce... but if you want to" proclaims the neon sign on the wall behind the sushi counter at London's top sushi bar off Kensington High Street. Take their advice, bag a ringside seat, and watch head chef and co-founder Yasuhiro Mineno tease, slice, tweak, and blowtorch his way to the most awesome, fresh, funky, spunky, colorful, and exquisite sushi, sashimi, salads, and carpaccios that you're likely to find this side of the East China Sea. Tofu-topped miso cappuccino comes in a Victorian cup and saucer, and softshell blue crab salad is a tangle of mizuna (Japanese greens). Delectable eight, 11, or 15-piece sushi spreads (£30–£60) might mesmerize with ponzu-spiked salmon, Japanese sea bream with rice cracker dust, salted Wagyu beef, or Japanese prawns. The bargain £12.50 five-piece salmon nigiri set lunch, with hot miso and bracing raw salad, is a smashing way to sample Yashin's below-the-radar brilliance.