You feel quite the foodie insider once you finally track down the quirky Rochelle Canteen—it's set in an old former bike shed at the restored Victorian-era Rochelle School (off Arnold Circus in Shoreditch, not far from Liverpool Street and the trendy boutiques of Redchurch Street). Ring a buzzer next to a pale blue door, go in through the "Boys" entrance (passing a former playground), and enter chef Margot Henderson's long white, austere canteen, which has an open kitchen and two long Formica tables, Ercol chairs, and Shaker coat pegs on the wall. Gloriously understated British fare arrives at a leisurely pace, from simple deviled kidneys on toast to a retro plate of Yorkshire ham and parsley sauce. Bump along with the Frieze London art and design crowd, and enjoy seasonal guinea fowl with bacon, or skate and capers, and finish with lemon posset or quince jelly. Note it's BYO (£5 corkage), and only open 9 am to 4:30 pm weekdays for breakfast, elevenses, lunch, and tea.