Not far from the Shard and south of the Thames between Tower and London bridges, and only a hop from the London Assembly HQ, Magdalen is a self-assured beacon of class in a remarkably rising gastrocentric part of town. Magdalen specializes in bold, inventive, but unpretentious modern British cuisine at fairly keen prices. Punchy surprises like crispy fried calves' brains with gribiche (£9.50), baked Somerset kid with butter beans and fennel (£19.50), or blackberry-and-apple trifle (£7) are hardly going to break the bank. The dark bentwood chairs, elegant chandeliers, tea candles, and enveloping ox-blood-color surrounds invite you to sit back with the short-but-sweet wine list and further ponder whether to indulge in a feast of slow-baked rabbit with white beans and roast garlic or whole stuffed suckling pig instead. The £15.50 two-course set lunch is definitely worth a gander.