Fodor's Expert Review Koya

Is it all the hypnotic foot kneading that makes the hand-pulled Sanuki udon wheat-flour noodles here sospringy, spongy, and maddeningly so addictive? Ever-present lines of polite Japanese diners and heritage-clad hip Soho-ites are a testament to the pull of the mega-tasty steaming dishes served at this tiny stripped-back cult noodle house on Frith Street in Soho. Once inside, start with cold udon on a bamboo basket with pungent miso and pickled pork, and then—if you're up for it—slurp hot udon dashi broth with smoked mackerel and Japanese green leaves, or fried tofu and green onions. There's pickled plums, Mylor prawn tempura, duck and rice in a bowl, slow-cooked onsen tamago poached eggs, and braised pork belly dishes, but it's the mighty udon noodle that ultimately prevails. Note it's no reservations.