Only a loony or genius would serve an appetizer of half a Cévennes onion with a few pear shavings and beurre blanc, but luckily maverick Swedish chef Mikael Jonsson falls triumphantly in the latter camp at his wild foodie haven in outlying Chiswick. A former lawyer and food blogger, Jonsson's obsessive approach to the provenance of his largely British-sourced ingredients—often rare, wild, or foraged—means that his dishes are some of the most intense and vivid around. Sit up on stools and watch Jonsson in an open kitchen prepare ingredient-driven marvels like wild Dorset sea bass with pickled black radishes and hyssop oil, hand-caught Devon scallops with a strikingly stuffed zucchini flower, or gloriously marbled 55-day-aged Darragh O'Shea Black Angus beef on the bone with juniper-smoked potatoes. Jonsson's spelt sourdough is extraordinary, and, for afters, a Cox-and-cobnut tart or English blueberries with rosemary sorbet are as pure and vital as the mains. Book far in advance.