Galvin Bistrot de Luxe. The masterful Galvin brothers, Chris and Jeff, blaze a spectacular trail for the French bistrot de luxe formula on a fast-moving stretch of Baker Street in Marylebone. Seasoned fans return time and again for the impeccable food, smart service, Bentwood chairs, and mahogany-paneled Parisian-style salon. There's no finer Dorset crab lasagna in town, and mains consistently punch above their weight: Cornish brill, calves liver with Alsace bacon, classic stuffed pig's trotter, and a sumptious daube of venison with chestnuts are all devilishly tasty, each one a superbly executed gastro triumph. The £19.50 three-course set lunches or £21.50 early evening dinners (6–7 pm) are top value, and look out for live Sunday afternoon jazz. 66 Baker St., Marylebone, London, W1U 7DJ. 020/7935–4007. www.galvinrestaurants.com. Reservations essential. Tube: Baker St.