The place is always packed and the tables jammed too close together, but everyone still comes for la dolce vita and chef Jacob Kenedy's wicked spread of rustic Italian regional fare. Located off Theatreland's Shaftesbury Avenue in Soho, this redbrick-fronted and always popular family-run destination offers a magnificent procession of small or large plates and peasant-based pastas, stews, roasts, and crudities from Lazio to Piedmont, Bologna to Trentino. Try drop-dead offerings like Roman veal saltimbocca, ear-shape Calabrian orecchiette pasta with nduja pork sausage, or Sicilian lobster spaghetti touched off with mussels and ginger. Limber up with an Aperol spritz before plunging into the regional Italian-focused wine list, which weaves from Super Tuscans to rare Barolos. There's also an intriguing marsala and a range of punchy aged grappas, plus desserts like milk-free espresso ice cream.