The place is always packed and the tables jammed too close together, but everyone still comes for the buzz and chef Jacob Kenedy's unusual rustic Italian regional fare. Located off Theatreland's Shaftesbury Avenue in Soho, this redbrick, popular family-run place offers a triumphant procession of small and large plates and peasant-based dishes from Piedmont to Emilia, Lombardy to Campania. Try drop-dead offerings like buffalo mozzarella, suckling pig, and Sicilian lobster spaghetti. Limber up with a Aperol spritz before plunging into the regional Italian-focused wine list, which weaves from Super Tuscans to rare Barolos. There's also an intriguing marsala and a range of punchy aged grappas, plus desserts like milk-free espresso ice cream.